Reviewed by Sarah Watton
The slice I had this past weekend at Dagwood's Pizza in Peachtree Corners was worth the drive to this suburban dive that’s tucked into one end of a Publix strip mall. Still in our church clothes, my husband and I were definitely overdressed for the dimly-lit, but cozy room with walls fittingly adorned with framed memorabilia and large-screen TVs. The menu includes standard bar fare, but it’s the pie that’s kept butts in the wooden booths since 1980 that you’re here for. Pizzas are offered whole and by the slice, with a thin crust option available, as well as strombolis, calzones, and even a stuffed crust pie for those who prefer things neatly packaged.
My husband and I ordered the Deluxe and Greek slices, respectively. A little over ten minutes later, the server brought two huge, steaming slices to our table. With one bite I knew that Dagwood’s pizza had trumped my longtime favorite Atlanta pizza, Napoli’s Pizzeria in Sandy Springs. The dough at Dagwood’s was crisp enough to support the sauce, cheese and toppings without getting doughy or soggy, but still very tender on the inside. The flavor of the dough was also great, but not so much to overpower the taste of the pizza. What earned the gold for me was how each element seemed lovingly attended to. The sauce tasted like a homemade marinara laced with just the right amount of tang and sweeter elements of basil and oregano. The ratio of sauce to cheese to toppings was also just right. My Greek slice had shaved pieces of lamb with caramelized edges and drifts of feta goat cheese and pepperoncini rings, and the Deluxe was loaded with olives, peppers, meat and a thin layering of extra mozzarella across the top to keep it all together.
Dagwood’s is located at 7746 Spalding Drive, where the latter intersects with Holcomb Bridge Road. ITP Atlantans and pizza aficionados willing to make the drive up 141 to this outpost that is serving up some seriously tasty pie will not be disappointed. I know that I will be returning, maybe in the evening for a little team trivia and an ice cold frosty beer.
5 out of 5 Peaches